Buying Guide

All of my rabbits are raised with temperament in mind and have a lot of interaction from myself and my children to socialise them.  They mean a lot to me and I only want to place them in the best homes. 

Please never buy a rabbit from a pet shop!

Children get bored and rabbits can live for 10+ years so please do your research before you commit.  If living outdoors, think of cleaning them out in the snow and rain for the next 12 years! Also they thrive on company and interaction with you.  I can not have them leave to sit in a hutch at the bottom of the garden and be ignored week in, week out.  If living outside they MUST go in pairs and only alone indoors if you are around a lot during them day.

I strongly recommend neutering/spaying even if keeping same sex pairs.  Two males together can only work if neutered straight away at 4 months and two females can become hormonal and fight and male/female pairs will mate as soon as fertile (even if brother/sister – I have been asked that before).

VACCINATIONS

I do insist on vaccinations.  RHD is rife in wild rabbits and wiping out a lot of pet rabbits.  It only takes a bird or fly to land in your garden carrying the disease for your rabbit to catch it.  Or you could bring it in on your clothes or shoes – house bunnies are not safe either.

Sadly many vets still only offer one vaccine (Nobivac) as standard and if you don’t know better then you don’t ask.  Here is what you need to ask for:

  • NOBIVAC – covers against Myxamatosis and VHD1
  • FILAVAC – covers against VHD1 and VHD2

I advise on ringing round your local practises for prices.  When I did this, the costs ranged from £15-42! Clent Hills vets in Bromsgrove were the most reasonable locally for me.

FILAVAC is far and away the most urgent vaccine for rabbits at the moment.

SHOPPING LIST:

  • Rabbits need suitable housing (even if they are going to be a free roam house bunny – they need a ‘safe space’)
  • A run or safe space for exercise – ideally attached to their hutch if possible.  Be aware of foxes, birds of prey (I have had both in my garden) and weather if they are to be left out unsupervised.  Also, rabbits dig!
  • Shavings or suitable substrate for hutch
  • Litter tray and wood (not clumping) cat litter if you want to litter train them
  • Toys and enrichment
  • Hidey houses, tunnels and platforms
  • Water bottles/food bowls
  • Dry pellets and hay
  • Don’t buy shop bought rabbit treats – safe fruit, vegetables and forage are MUCH BETTER and cheaper!

FOOD:

Hay – rabbits need an unlimited supply of hay and should make up 80-90% of their diet.  They should never run out of hay and need to eat enough of it to wear down their teeth.  If they have too many dry pellets and not enough hay it’s not good for their teeth or digestive system.  If they are eating enough hay they will have big, golden poo! Small, dark poos mean too much dry food and not enough hay!

Dry pellets – an egg cup per day (or check guidelines on the pack for weight).

All of my babies leave with the following:

  • Birth Certificate
  • Care Booklet
  • Changeover Food
  • Ongoing Support & Advice For Life

OTHER IMPORTANT INFO

  • I will not let a rabbit go to anyone under the age of 18
  • I will check the rabbit over with you before they leave my care – including eyes, nose, ears, teeth, nails, coat and check sex
  • I will not be held responsible for the health of the rabbit after 24 hours of them leaving my care
  • I reserve the right to refuse sale as it’s important my babies are only placed in the very best homes

COLLECTIONS

At the time of reserving we will arrange a collection date for your rabbit.  If for any reason I feel that it would be in the best interests of that rabbit to stay with me for a little bit longer then I am within my rights to do that.  If you do not show up to collect your rabbit as agreed then you risk losing your deposit.  You must bring a suitable PET CARRIER to take your rabbit home – lined with a blanket or plenty of hay so non-slippy.  Rabbits won’t be allowed to leave ‘on laps’.

PAIRS OF RABBITS

Preference will always be given to those homing in pairs.  If you want to reserve two rabbits from separate litters I will happily hold your first rabbit until the second one is ready to leave for however long that may be as long as you have paid in full for the first rabbit.  I will always bond rabbit pairs for you before leaving here if they are to live together.  As I get asked often, it is fine to house a mini lop and a lionhead together.  The best combination for a bonded pair is a neutered/spayed male/female pairing but please be aware that they can become fertile from 3/4 months. I am happy to run neuter and bond a pair before they leave here.

Feel free to contact me at any time for advice.